In keeping with my New Year Resolution to provide timely instructions when promised (wink), here are some diagrams so you can build your own wine rack like the one Chris made me for Christmas.
The baby is going to wake up any minute, so I’ll keep this as brief as possible.
First decide how big you want your wine rack to be. Ours is about 31 x 23″ and 3.5″ deep. We used redwood fence pickets which are about 5.75″ wide with a small (0.25″) gap between them.
Drill the holes for your wine bottles using a hole saw — ours are about 2.5″ in diameter.
Assemble the frame of the wine rack. It’s basically just a box.
Add 2×4″ pieces behind the holes. You can play around with the placement of the 2x4s but they seemed to work best for us when they covered about 1/2 of the holes.
Of course, different bottles have differently-shaped necks so we varied the placement of the 2x4s somewhat to accomodate different bottles. Again, just play around with it with a few sample bottles. Nail the 2x4s in from the sides.
THEN, add an extra 1×2″ strip of wood on the bottom of the 2×4″ piece. I don’t have a photo of this but here’s a diagram. The second row down shows the placement of the strip a little clearer (it’s cut down short in the diagram but you’ll want to make it full length, like the others). This makes the angle of the bottles steeper so they stay held in when the rack is mounted vertically on the wall (a feature that isn’t needed in A-frame riddling racks).
From the front it’ll look like this:
Then assemble the front of the rack.
We used a 15-gauge nailer and finish nails for our nailing. The great thing about finish nails is that they barely show after being nailed. A hammer and nails would work fine too, it would just take longer and the nail heads would show (in that case you probably wouldn’t want to nail on the front face of the wine rack).
Sand down the wood using a belt sander or rotary sander (or you could do this step before assembling, up to you) and put a protective finish of your choice on it. We used a homemade Danish oil mixture (1 part boiled linseed oil, 1 part oil-based poly, and 1 part mineral spirits). The redwood looks really good once it’s sanded down. Hard to believe they’re fence pickets!
Here are a few more diagrams for clarity:
Hope that helps! Again, this wasn’t a super precise undertaking, and you’ll want to tweak the measurements to suit your own space, but you get the idea =).
Enjoy a bottle of wine once you’re done to congratulate yourself for all the hard work!
After over a year, our DIY Bedframe continues to be one of my most popular posts, and finally I’m getting around to putting plans and dimensions up to help you build it.
One of my New Year’s resolutions is to be better about providing tutorials and plans when I promise them. I won’t always be able to provide detailed instructions for every project, but when I say I will, I should do so in a timely fashion. I’m finding myself playing catchup from last year’s projects, so please bear with me.
I’ve been pretty intimidated by Google Sketchup in the past but my patient husband is slowly teaching me so I’ll be able to create better and more accurate drawings. It is really an amazing program (and it’s free) that allows you to visualize something you’re building (even draw a 3D model of an entire room to scale).
Anyway, I’m sure you’re all eager to stop hearing me blather on and get to the good stuff.
Step 1: Create inner frame
The structure of the bed was created using an inner frame of 2×6″ and 2×4″ lumber (although in reality lumber measures 1 1/2″ x 5 1/2″ and 1 1/2″ by 3 1/2″, as reflected in the plans). The whole inner portion was put together using framing nails and a nail gun. Most of the nails were shot in from the ends. Some of the middle pieces had to be attached using nails fired in at an angle (toe-nailed).
Step 2: Attach outer frame
The outer frame pieces were attached to the inner frame using screws drilled through from the inner frame. You may need to adjust the measurements of the outer pieces based on how tightly the inner frame fit together, so you may want to hold off on cutting the side pieces until you’ve measured.
Feel free to adjust the height of the legs depending on how thick your mattress is and how high you want to be sleeping.
If you’re using a foam mattress, you’ll want to cut a piece of plywood or MDF to make a solid platform for the bed.
And that’s pretty much it! It’s a pretty simple design, so hopefully I was able to communicate how to do it.
Note: Please double check the measurements against your own mattress and adjust accordingly. We custom made this bed according to our IKEA king-size mattress, which may be slightly different from yours.
Sharing at DIYShowoff!
This L-shaped DIY sofa console that we have in our living room is definitely our most popular project to date.
Because a couple of people have commented or emailed to let me know that they are attempting (or have attempted) to build this console table, we decided to draw up some loose plans to give our readers a better idea of how the table is put together.
We made an L-shaped console table, but it was basically just two straight tables butted up perpendicular to each other. I haven’t listed specific measurements here, because you can adjust the length of the console table to fit your space.
This is how each piece of the table will look.
We didn’t bother to hide the screws, so everything is attached together using screws drilled through from the outside surface.
We’re not professionals in drawing up plans (especially not me), but we hope that additional angles and information will help those of you who are building a similar table.
For more photos of the finished project, please go to the original post for the DIY Sofa Table. Have fun!